Critics question quality and marketing as fruit spread sparks controversy despite selling out
Meghan Markle’s lifestyle brand, As Ever, is under scrutiny after one of its flagship products—a fruit spread—was branded a “real disappointment” by a world-renowned jam expert.
Donna Collins, founder of Jelly Queens and a multi-time jam championship winner, criticised the apricot spread’s consistency and production quality. Speaking to the media, she claimed that labelling it as a “spread” rather than a jam suggests the product was a failed attempt at proper jam-making.
“In the jam industry, a spread is what we call something that didn’t work,” said Collins. “If I had a jam that was too runny, I’d slap a label on it and call it a spread. There’s no excuse for this—it should be perfect.”
She also questioned the inclusion of pectin, a gelling agent, in the As Ever spread, noting that most high-quality spreads don’t require it. “Why is she using pectin unless it’s because her spread was too runny?” Collins asked, adding, “We all know it’s not Meghan making it—it sounds like they don’t really know what they’re doing.”
Despite the sharp criticism, others have defended the product. Maureen Foley of Red Hen Cannery offered a more generous interpretation, suggesting that the brand could be targeting a versatile, lifestyle-oriented niche. “Spreads can be sweet or savoury… perhaps it’s just clever marketing,” she said.
Although the apricot spread sold out quickly, many online users have criticised its high price tag and limited availability—adding fuel to the debate around As Ever’s substance versus style. As Meghan continues to build her post-royal brand, this controversy serves as an early challenge to its authenticity and market strategy.
